LETTER FROM OVERSEAS EDITOR
Maravilhosa. Make no mistake, Rio is a city of excess and superlatives. Trumping even Sydney and Cape Town, this may well be the most breathtaking metropolis in the world. Awe-inspiring geographic grandness of mythic proportion manifests into reality and dominates the landscape towering above and along the urban sprawl – most notably Copacabana beach, Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf), Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) and Morro Dois Irmaos (Two Brother’s Hill). Come to Rio and surrender yourself to its overwhelming beauty, simpatico life-style and soulful philosophy. In order to get to Rio de Janeiro from Australia, all Qantas flights must go through Buenos Aires first. So I’ve included a guide to the perfect quick layover in Argentina – 48 Hours in Buenos Aires. Better shine your tango shoes… After Carnaval-time in Rio, head north to the Costa do Sol to relax. Edge Gold List highlights the most enchanting seaside town outside of Rio, Buzios, ‘the St. Tropez of Brazil.’ Also, in this issue we announce the first winner of our Edge Around the World Photo Competition - see below the pensive photo that won our hearts to be crowned April’s winner. Keep your entries coming, we love seeing your adventures. Deadline for June entry is May 10th. Next issue coming out the beginning of June, I’m taking you to my favourite coast in the world – the Amalfi Coast of Italy. All of us are aware that times are tough financially. We are in the midst of a global recession and the ripple effect is reaching deep into our expense accounts for travel. However, never underestimate the value of a holiday to grant perspective on your life and illuminate what is truly important. I’ve included Off-Season Secrets, places that are a great value during the shoulder season with fewer crowds and still ripe to find the winter sun. Brazil is at the top of the list. Sincerely, Kimberly Rosbe |
I’ve never witnessed a culture so confident in its sexiness as Rio de Janeiro. From the sensual curve of its beaches to the sun-kissed colour of Brazilian skin to the passionate beat of samba to the seductive sunset over Ipanema to the titillating celebration at Carnaval – here everything is overt, in-your-face obvious hedonism. In fact, this pursuit of pleasure permeates the Latin rhythm of cariocas in every move they make.
EDITORIAL
All Washed UpTom Cruise and Katie Holmes were checking out the day we checked in. They had rented all 6 of the entire 7th floor penthouses for their entourage for the week. I mean where else would you stay if you were promoting a new film in Rio and you were the biggest movie star in the world? Clearly the Copacabana Palace. After all, this hotel is the stuff of legends. Since the 1920s, the rich and powerful of the world have come here to play, be glamourous and immerse themselves in Rio high society Copacabana-style. Galas and concerts were hosted by the likes of Tony Bennett and Ella Fitzgerald in the grand ballrooms. Prince Charles and Lady Diana would linger by the pool. Visiting dignitaries and Hollywood legends like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers would walk the halls dressed to kill and now eternally grace the ballroom walls in rows of classic black and white autographed photographs. Today if you are, say, Robert De Niro, Sting or Princess Caroline of Monaco, Copacabana is where you debut your most fashionable gown or tuxedo and come to enjoy the Brazilian tropics. Try to keep up – be elegant and glamourous here or go home. So as guests, my friend and I did our best to attempt the part and blend in. If there was ever a time for Dior scarves and rock-star sunglasses, this was the moment. Today we gracefully exited the grand lobby steeped in gold, marble and history and set out for the iconic Christo Redentor. Perched on the zenith of Corcovado, and seemingly on top of the world for our purposes, the journey UP is substantial. A winding taxi ride up the base of the mountain, to a shaky tram ride up the next steep incline, to a van ride up the the last drivable leg, and finally to an elevator ride through the mountain to the several hundred step climb to the viewing deck at the statue’s base hovering in the sky above Rio. But as if cued by a movie director, the moment the elevator doors opened, a loud crash thundered overhead and the heavens opened up dumping a torrential downpour like only a rainforest can. After such a monumental effort getting here, we were not leaving without experiencing the view from the top. So we made a run for it, white pants and all, and dearly paid the price with total saturation of our clothes, skin and hair as the rain unrelentingly fell in buckets. Returning to our palace, we looked like a couple of wet rats. With only one main entrance, we had no choice but to parade through the revolving doors of Copacabana’s venerable lobby to the complete horror of the hotel’s immaculately dressed staff and distinguished guests flanking us on both sides. Standing front and center in the grandest lobby of the most legendary, sophisticated hotel in the world with the most famous and illustrious visitors and we looked distinctly like we had just come from a wet tee-shirt contest. Graceful? Dignified? Elegant? Ah, NO. I fully expect to be thrown out of the hotel tomorrow. FEATURERio de Janeiro: Carnaval Time
When you attempt to look beyond the visual spectacular and visceral beach scene, interpreting Rio de Janeiro is not as simple as it seems. In fact, the city itself is a world of paradox. The ostentatious wealth gleaming along Avenida Atlantica and Vieira Souto contrasts sharply with slums and impoverished ghettos which lie just beyond the perimeter. Modernist architecture of Oscar Niemeyer stands beside decaying 1970s development disasters. The simple beach attitude of Ipanema and Leblon flies in the face of the chaotic centre of Lapa, Santa Teresa and Flamengo. Enthusiastic hedonists of Carnaval march alongside devout religious processions. Driving around the city, there is no congruity. Rio’s hey-day was definitely during the jet-set beach booms of the 1930s and 1960s. But since then, not much has changed. Ultimately, Rio oscillates between what it once was and what it has become. A ‘carioca’ is defined as the synthesis of the mixtures of Brazil. And the essence of a ‘carioca’ is savouring life in all its complications, distractions and beauty. Come here to find yourself or lose yourself – it doesn’t matter, the Rio people are extraordinarily tolerant of individuality and champion an open-minded spirit.
Despite being a sprawling city mass, Rio dedicates itself to denying the urban in its consciousness and focusing on its natural beauty – the golden beaches, the jungle-clad mountains, the glittering blue waters. Lying at the edge of the sea and framed by massive dense mountains boasting the largest metropolitan forest in the world, Tijuca National Park, Rio is truly a feast for the eyes. In 1930, the people of Rio built a three-story statue of Christ at the tip of a mountain focusing our sights back to the majestic geography – not that the city needed further visual cues. Already Rio housed the lush bulbs of Sugar Loaf and the twin peaks of Morro Dois Irmaos. Here it’s all a show – from Carnaval to the awesome geographic landmarks to the everyday pageant along the beaches. And above all else, the beaches are integral to any Rio experience as all life migrates toward the beach and exists on the beach. Modesty is unnecessary here. Rest assured, all the women do not look like Brazilian supermodel Gisele. Every imaginable body type parades the boardwalks and hangs out in the sand with no shame and complete acceptance by all. On New Year’s Day millions of Brazilians go to the beach to pay homage to Lemanja, the sea goddess. Regardless of the time of year, I suggest you do the same. RIO HIGHLIGHTSCristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)
Probably the internationally best-known civic icon in the world, Cristo Redentor is a 38-metre art deco statue built in 1931 atop Corcovado which reigns in the heavens watching over its beloved Rio far below. One of three key vantage points in Rio – Pao e Acucar and the ferry to Niterio being the other two – Christ the Redeemer commands the best views of the city and its beaches. After the bumpy taxi ride up the mountain, a shaky tram ride to the summit and a steep climb up hundreds of steps, gape in wonder at the panoramic view of the city. The combination of city and beaches, mountains and sea will literally take your breath away, and religious or not, you will succumb to a spiritual moment. Carnaval
The Praias: Copacabana, Ipanema & Leblon
In Rio life revolves around the beach. On the weekend, you can literally watch a mass exodus from the Centre flocking towards the beach in droves on streets running perpendicular to the water. Arriving, you’ll find a cocktail of all walks of life and body types and shades of glistening tones of browned flesh. Brightly-coloured umbrellas, a rainbow of sarongs and floss bikinis provide the eye candy amongst the sand and surf. Oddly, most people stand. The beach is the place to see and be seen – this is a party and mingling is a must. No lounging allowed. Along the shores of the city, there are a series of beaches each with its own character, fashion and flavour. Certainly the most legendary beach in Rio, Copacabana may not have the cleanest surf and its sand may not be the whitest, but this sweeping horseshoe still epitomises Rio beach culture in all its democratic smorgasbord. And of course, the historic Copacabana Palace gleams white and majestic across the road.
The glamourous people seem to have migrated south towards Rio’s two ocean-facing beaches – Ipanema and Leblon. Ipanema is unquestionably the best place in Rio to watch the sun setting behind the Morro Dois Irmaos. Posto 9 in Ipanema, just off Rua Vinicius de Moraes, is where the beautiful people come to perfect their tans. Linger here on the sophisticated sands of Ipanema and watch the dying day’s light fade into a haze of soft hues and blurred crowds. Separated from Ipanema by the Jardim de Ala, Leblon’s beaches are famous for its big, bruising waves. The beach comes to life early with morning games of volleyball, football and tennis. Behind the promenade of Leblon’s Avenida Delfim Moreira, you’ll find a leafy residential area with its Rua Dias Ferreira emerging as the new retail and restaurant hot spot.
Maracana StadiumSoccer is the national pastime in Brazil. It’s almost as if the sport is somehow naturally injected into Brazilian blood. Along every beach in Rio, you’ll find young boys with angelic legs playing the game. Soccer stars are revered gods in this country, and the Maracana Stadium is the gateway to heaven. This temple of soccer has housed the legendary World Cup games of folklore history. Brazilians still speak of the national disappointment and despair after the 1950 loss in the finals to Uruguay. Join in the mass delirium and witness a match here. You can almost still hear the cheers for heros past – Pele, Garrincha, Jairzinho… Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf)
Copacabana Promenade
Lagoa Rodrigo de FreitasLagoa Rodrigo de Freitas is located amongst the upscale apartment blocks of Gavea and Lagoa commanding unique views of Corcovado and Cristo Redentor. The perfect start to a day in Rio, take a short taxi ride north to this saltwater lagoon bobbing with anchored sailboats and walk or cycle the circumference of its 8-km looped path. You can rent a bike for a mere $6 Real an hour ($4 Australian) near the Parque Brigadeiro Faria Lima on the west side. For lunch here, try Olympe, a French restaurant on its north shore. Jardim BotanicoOver 200 years old, D. Joao (Prince Regent at the time) created the garden to acclimatise species and spices brought over from the East Indies to Brazilian climates. Today the botanical gardens are a slice of rainforest boasting 6,200 tropical species of flora in the centre of the city. It is easy to get lost in its palm-lined avenues and feel a world away from the hustle of Rio when you are lingering by the lake marveling at its one metre tall water lilies. Museu de Arte Contemporanea Niteroi
RIO HOTELS
Copacabana Palace - The history of the Copacabana Palace is as synonymous with Rio as its beaches. The stories of the hotel’s famous guests over the years have singlehandedly kept Rio’s social columns in print – the hey-day of the Golden Room with performances by Ella Fitzgerald and Tony Bennett attended by Rio’s elite, the high-rolling decade of gambling in the Copa Casino and the prime Carnaval events hosted by the royalty of Rio in its grand ballrooms. For 80 years this hotel has built a justified reputation as the grandest, most exclusive, most sophisticated place to stay in Rio with impeccable service and charisma. Its rooms manifest oldworld glamour, its pool is still the best pool in Rio, and its Cipriani restaurant is always in the top ten hotel restaurants in the world. A stay here reveals the enchantment of the tradition of the past. It is truly a white palace by the sea.
Marina All Suites - Considered the lone ’boutique hotel’ on the water in Rio, Marina All Suites is a sophisticated place in Leblon attracting a cosmopolitan cool crowd to its 38 individually decorated suites with ocean views, living areas and mini-kitchens. The 8 designer suites are the stars of the show having been created by famous Brazilian architects and designers. The hotel’s private movie theater which seats 8 and the hotel’s restaurant and bar are highlights. The bilingual staff are all young, hip and eager to please. Sofitel Rio Palace - Having undergone a $25 million renovation, the Sofitel Rio sits at a pleasant end of Copacabana Beach. From the outside you will not be impressed with the hulking Ushaped exterior, but the inside is better. All 388 rooms get at least partial beach views and all have balconies. Bonus – there are two rooftop pools – one facing the morning sun and the other positioned to take advantage of afternoon sun. Portinari Design Hotel - A chic but very affordable establishment with 11 floors and 66 rooms but no direct beach views. Still it’s just a short walk from the hotel to popular Ipanema. Their restaurant, Brodowski, has a good rooftop dining space. RIO RESTAURANTS
Rio Scenarium - A Rio institution and one of the most vibrant venues in the city, this 3-story colonial mansion/antique shop in the Centro’s Lapa district comes to life by night with sexy live samba bands playing Chorino, a vocally led style of Brazilian music. Everyone is on his feet dancing to this samba jam session and you can’t help but feel a part of the culture as you sway your hips to Rio’s quintessential art form – music. Rua do Lavradio 20, Lapa Aprazivel - Brazilian restaurant set in a sort of tree house in the hills of Santa Teresa with incredible views over Rio. ‘Aprazivel’ is Portuguese for ‘experience,’ and that is exactly what a trip to this restaurant is. You’ll find authentic cuisine in an unique open-air setting with the tables mingled among trees and vegetation. A bit of an effort to get here, but well worth the journey. Go for lunch to appreciate the setting and marvelous views of Guanabara Bay and the city. Rua Aprazivel 62, Santa Teresa Gero - In Ipanema this elegant northern Italian cuisine is served up inside bare brick walls, leather/chrome furniture and dim lighting. Superb food and service, this is my second favourite restaurant in Rio. While enjoying authentic Italian and the divine fresh seafood, watch the parade of beautiful, sophisticates dining with you. Rua Anibal Mendoca 157, Ipanema Bar d’Hotel - The Marina All Suites restaurant, Bar d’Hotel has a sexy 1960s Rio vibe and is as hip as this part of town gets. The small restaurant prepares contemporary food overlooking a brilliant view of Leblon beach. The bar makes excellent cocktails warranting its reputation – try a passion fruit caipirinha. Avenida Delfim Moreira 696, Leblon Pergula at Copacabana Palace - As the Copacabana’s evening restaurant, Cipriani is very formal. So instead a great way to see the famous pool and interior of the hotel is to dine alfresco at their pool’s restaurant for breakfast or lunch. Avenida Atlantica 1702, Copacabana BONUS: 48 Hours in Buenos Aires
Day OneTHOROUGHBRED CITY – NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH – A city of barrios (neighborhoods), each section of town is entirely unique. Recoleta is the most world-renowned and affluent suburb with its broad tree-lined boulevards where the rich eat, shop and live. This area with its obvious displays of French classicism contains similarities to the streets of Paris, housing monumental buildings along the Avenida Alvear and grand BA hotel classics like the Park Hyatt and the Alvear Palace. Palermo, consisting of Viejo, Chico, Hollywood and Soho, is the most vibrant district with an expanding abundance of cafes, bars and restaurants as well as designers and boutique hotels. La Boca’s working class district is famous for its Juniors Football Club (where Diego Maradona started out) and its brightly-coloured corrugated iron houses of Caminito. San Telmo, the oldest section of BA, is the tango barrio of the city and its flea market in Plaza Dorrego is now a Sunday morning fixture. The newest part of the city, the docklands of Puerto Madero, is developing quickly and worth a visit to see the direction of modern BA. Also, here you catch a two-hour ferry to Uruguay and the sexy weekend escape of Punta del Estate. DON’T CRY FOR HER – The First Lady of Argentina, the beloved Eva ‘Evita’ Peron, rests eternally in the Recoleta Cemetery. Opened in 1822 the cemetery has 60,000 square metres of individual grand mausoleums each with uniquely different architectural styles and dedications. All of BA’s most illustrious names – presidents, political giants, scientists, artists, etc. – are buried here. As you walk through the rows of venerated tombs carefully maintained, you feel as if the ghosts of the city surround and guide you. TEST YOUR TANGO SHOES - In this city it’s sacrilegious not to attempt the tango. I can tell you from personal experience, The Confiteria La Ideal is the most authentic place to take lessons. This bastion of belle epoque grandeur and old school Thonet furniture, the Ideal opened to glory in 1912 and retains most of its grace and charm today. On Monday, Wednesday and Fridays there are tango lessons and Saturday nights there is milonga. This is where you come to watch the older local tango dancers strut their stuff. Another great venue for milonga is La Viruta in Palermo. The people there take their tango seriously. Day TwoART EXTRAORDINAIRE – Boasting rave local and foreign reviews, MALBA is the pick for the best museum in the city. The creation of Eduardo Constantini, one of the biggest collectors of contemporary Latin American art in the world, Malba displays works by Frida Kahlo, Antonio Berni, Tarsila do Amaral, Diego Rivera and other notable 20th century artists with new exhibitions and events incessantly. The museum seamlessly blends paintings, drawings, sculptures, photographs and installations from Argentina, Mexico and the Caribbean in its avant-garde building. CAFE CULTURE – The cafe culture scene in Buenos Aires is so entrenched, prolific and integral to the city’s fundamental nature that entire guidebooks have been solely dedicated to this subject. Try Bar 6, Mott or Olsen in Palermo, or Patagonia Sur in La Boca. Also there exists a fluidity of activities amongst this cafe culture (multiespacio in Spanish) evidenced most clearly in certain legendary BA spaces – notably Opera Pampa and El Ateneo. Opera Pampa is Palermo’s multiespacio. It offers not only a place to linger over coffee, but also a place to shop, watch musical shows and gaucho dancers. This is a vast neoclassical pavilion built in 1910 with 3,000 square metres of space and arguably the most dramatic interior in town. Originally a theatre, El Ateneo is now the city’s most impressive book shop with a cafe right in the centre. ARCHITOUR – This city trumpets a number of structural statements contributing to the urban landscape of Buenos Aires through which Argentine architects have expressed a distinctive version of modernism. Start with the Puente de la Mujer, a 102-metre inclined sculptural walkway that traverses the harbour connecting the city centre and Puerto Madero. Next find your way to the open park between the districts of Palermo and Recoleta to discover a grand example of visual art called La Flor, a massive 13-metre high aluminum and stainless steel flower whose petals open and close at dawn and dusk while being lit internally. Nearby behold the spectacular Planetario Galileo Galilei planetarium with its 20-metre high cupola and curved concrete base. Traveling west you’ll find the Kavanagh Building and the Biblioteca Nacional. Also be sure to check out La Boca Bridge, an iron bridge built in 1914 by the railway and one of only a handful of genuine transporter bridges remaining in the world.
(Buenos Aires Cont. – Hotels on opposite page) |
EDGE GOLD LISTBUZIOSBest Coastal Town Outside of Rio
Brigitte Bardot, world-famous movie star and sex symbol of the 60s, has been single-handedly credited with putting this sleepy fishing village on Brazil’s Costa do Sol on the map of the cultivated traveler’s must-see coastal towns. She dubbed Buzios ‘the St. Tropez of Brazil.’ But I can personally attest, this place is no St. Tropez. There is no glitz. There is no glamour. Buzios is, however, the sort of paradise that was lost in time… One day watching the sun set over Praia de Manguinhos on Buzio’s longest north shore beach, I met a scruffy older man who grew up here during the years Brigitte Bardot came to stay. He remembered vividly those ‘heaven-sent’ days in the summer of 1964 which have become legendary around this town. Over a glass of wine and a bout of nostalgia, he told stories of how Brigitte came here with her then Brazilian boyfriend Bob Zagury in the prime of her career to escape the paparazzi, reporters and photographers who followed her every move in Hollywood. During her hideout time in this undiscovered, simple fishing village two hours north of Rio, she rediscovered the joy of living. The black and white photographs from one lone photographer of the blond bombshell with no make-up, casual chic and visibly content on the beaches of Buzios (and more beautiful than ever), drew world-wide attention and curiosity to Buzios and the rich cariocas followed. Today the peninsula of Cabo Frio and the town of Buzios remain unpretentious, uncrowded and laid-back. Most of the roads outside ‘town’ are still dirt, filled with potholes and few signs. There are a handful of boutique-style hotels, chic shops and good restaurants along cobblestone streets. My personal favourite stop on the town’s main street Rua das Pedras is famous native Brazilian artist Vilmar Madruga’s art studio which is on permanent exhibition in Buzios. Madruga captures the essence of Buzios in some of his sunset paintings of the island. (one of which now hangs in my foyer) And his perception is accurate, the true draw of Buzios is its sun and sand. Every turn on the peninsula reveals a unique space of beach and surf – each with its own character, colour and atmosphere. Here it’s an all-day affair searching for the perfect beach to relax, swim and take a trip back in time. Hotel recommendations:INSOLITO
The elite travel experts on Brazil from around the world are recommending this new property as the #1 choice in Buzios now. Without question, Paris-born owner Emmanuelle Meeus de Clermont Tonnerre has set a new standard for luxury boutique hotels in the town. Emmanuelle herself is stunningly beautiful, elegant and fashionable, as if plucked off the pages of French Vogue. Her exquisite taste has translated to the feminine touch and curve of the property which cascades down a lush hill above horseshoe-shaped Praia da Ferradura commanding panoramic water angles. Each individually designed room showcases sleek, modern lines and expresses Brazil in all its contradictions by featuring an element of Brazilian culture, art and history from colonial to modern times. The outdoor spaces, designed by landscape architect extraordinaire Anouck Barcat, are a highlight with fresh and salt water pools, jacuzzi, hot tub, sauna, and multileveled lounge areas in heavenly white decor all cleverly positioned to take advantage of the sea views. Charming manager Andre Tijuca will personally ensure your every whim is catered to during your stay. In Emmanuelle’s own words, “life gave me a sign” to turn her vacation beach home into this sophisticated feast of the senses and the best that Buzios has to offer. Tip: Be sure to try Insolito’s Hydrating Foot Spa overlooking the bay. The setting and treatment are both sublime. BRAVA
An otherworldly vista awaits at the boutique Brava Hotel perched on a steep rise over Praia Brava, arguably the most beautiful uncommercialised beach in Buzios, a mere golf cart ride away down the hill. Its brown stucco exterior contrasts sharply with the Mediterranean bluetiled shallow pools and blinding white day beds overlooking the turquoise Oceano Atlantico. Inside sensually candelabra-lit Southern California inspired spaces await. A bit removed from the town, come to Brava to escape completely and mingle with the locals who come here for weekend romantic getaways. Tip: Although the regular rooms come at quite a bargain, Brava’s two Presidential lofts are spectacular and only $273 US in low season. (Keep in mind, anything other than Carnaval time is considered ‘low-season’ and the weather remains sunny and consistent on the coast almost year around.) CASAS BRANCAS
Although rightfully boasting the Buzios hotel terrace with the best sunsets, Casas Brancas has lost its appeal and is in desperate need of a renovation. This hotel has long been the choice of the international jet set since the 1960s, but Casas Brancas has passed its prime and is no longer deserving of its once fine reputation. An inadequate pool, pathetic decking furniture, small ordinary rooms and disgraceful restaurant food, the only notable attribute is its close proximity to the town – a mere five minute walk to the cobblestone Rua das Pedras. Tip: Gather here for pre-dinner drinks and watch the sun sink over the fishing village before going to dinner in town. Favourite Buzios Restaurants:
BRIZA – Located about 20 minutes away from town at the Villa Rasa Marina Hotel, this new restaurant sits over Praia Rasa with the best oyster and ceviche bar in Buzios. Executive Chef Felipe Bronze creates Mediterranean seafood cuisine using rustic methods of cooking over firewood and charcoal. This new Marina hotel is overpriced for its location so far out of town, but do make the effort for lunch or dinner. SAWASDEE – You would swear you were in Thailand at this superb, authentic Thai restaurant located right on the waterfront of town and just steps away from the famous Brigitte Bardot bronze statue. The menu is endless, the seafood perfectly broiled, the vegetables and sauces delectable. QUADRUCCI – At the far end of the Porto da Barra centro gastronomico boardwalk overlooking the pier of Praia de Manguinhos, Quadrucci serves contemporary Italian in a modern glass enclosure. This area is worth a visit for a different perspective on Buzios and its abundant restaurant selections. After dinner go for a walk on the pier to see the moon shine off the fishing boats resting in the harbour. BAR DO ZE – Opposite the town’s pier on Orla Bardot, this is the best steak and seafood restaurant in Buzios. The walls are adorned with oil painting images of great waves from Brazil and Hawaii. (The owner and his beautiful wife are both surfing lovers.) His wife owns a boutique by the same name, Bar do Ze, in the Galeria Passeio da Palmeiras which carries long print sundresses in fine silk fabrics. BORA BORA – Buzio’s version of St. Tropez’s Nikki Beach and Club 55 but on a much more casual, rustic level. Located directly on Praia de Manguinhos, the longest beach in Buzios. Hang out here late afternoon and into the evening for a drink and dance to the groovy tunes of DJ Gee Moore. The tapas food is not half bad either.
Favourite Buzios Beaches:With 20 some beaches to choose from, the best advice is to rent a boat and spend the entire day discovering your favourite strip of sand… Praia Joao Fernandinho – Small beach on the farthest eastern point of the peninsula with calm, crystal clear turquoise water. Near popular Joano Fernandes beach where you can dine on lobster in between swims. Praia de Geriba – Most popular beach in Buzios frequented by the locals. 4 kilometres of wide open sand and surf on the southern side of the peninsula great for windsurfing, boogie-boarding and other beachy sports activities. Praia Azeda – An environmental reserve peninsula recently purchased by Orient Express, this charming cove beach is only reached by boat or foot on a rocky trail that begins at Praia dos Ossos. Soon to become private property once Orient develops this piece of land for its resort in the next year, so enjoy while still a public space as it’s considered the most exquisite piece of land and sea in Buzios. EDGE PHOTO COMPETITION
Edge Around the WorldThe winner of this month’s Edge Around the World Photo Competition is the Gelb Family! This pensive photo of your son Nathan studying the Arc de Triomphe in Paris wearing the Executive Edge backpack stole our hearts. Congrats! Please see Yvonne to claim your travel-related prize. For everyone else – keep your entries coming. Your photos have even inspired our staff at Edge to embark upon an internal battle for top photo. See below for Yvonne’s paragliding daredevil adventure into Zighy Bay in Oman just two weeks ago… Next issue coming out beginning of June, our favourite client’s photo will be chosen and featured in the leisure newsletter and receive a travel-related prize. For consideration for the June issue, entries must be received by May 10th. (details below) Simply shoot and win! Executive Edge Travel & Events announces its first all-client worldwide competition with exciting bi-monthly travel prizes. Everyone can participate and has a chance to win. Only three simple steps to enter:
OFF-SEASON SECRETSCan’t afford the high season rates for top destinations? These hot spots are still hot after the crowds leave and rates plummet during their shoulder seasons:
MARCH – APRILRio de Janeiro – With Carnaval over, hotel rooms are abundant and drop in price as much as 60 percent in early March while the summer sun continues to shine. Hawaii – Early March through May, Hawaii’s rates sink but the big waves always swell. North American Rockies and European Alps - Any high altitude ski resort is still open in Colorado, California, British Columbia and certain places in the French Alps. You can ski all day and you are guaranteed a tan. MAY – JUNESouthern European cities – The summer crowds haven’t arrived yet and the outdoor cafe culture has begun. Come before the rates go up as well as the temperature. Caribbean, Mexican Riviera – After Easter in April, room prices fall up to 30 percent and hurricane season doesn’t begin until mid-August. Thailand – Tourist season begins in full force in July, but the rains in June make this month cooler and less expensive. Baja Mexico – The desert sun has not reached its peak until July and August, so June is still a comfortable time to visit temperature-wise with low rates abounding. Los Cabos is ideal this month. SEPTEMBER – OCTOBERSouth Africa – The Big Five can be seen easier as the foliage is less dense during these months and safari lodges have yet to hit high season so rates are lower. Dubai – Early September through October hotel bargains are everywhere, not to mention the days are much cooler. Dubai has been so profoundly impacted by the global recession that deals are endless. NOVEMBER-DECEMBERFiji, South Pacific Islands – Tahiti, Fiji and other islands in the South Pacific are most appealing in early November when the water is at its clearest and ideal for diving and snorkeling. Costa Rica – The first two weeks in December the rain has finally stopped and the island’s rates are rock-bottom. Great surfing and bird watching here as well. EDGE TRAVELGila’s Travel Diary – Kenya
Seven days in Kenya on safari with Wildlife Safari – here goes. I arrived in Nairobi in late afternoon and checked into the Serena Hotel, a 5-star property in old English Colonial in the centre of town. In the morning we left for Samburu Game Park and the Samburu Lodge. This property is situated on the Samburu River which houses huge crocodiles hand fed every evening by the kitchen staff from the lodge! (Don’t worry, guests watch safely from behind a glass wall.) Samburu Lodge is very comfortable, cottage-style with lots of monkeys to keep you company. Be aware they love stealing and getting into your cottages for anything that they can find! Meals at the lodge are first-class with lots of choices and varieties and coffee and tea are available 24- hours a day. Breakfast is a real treat, English-style with fresh pancakes and all your heart desires. Game viewing is twice daily at 7am and again towards dusk at 5pm in Land Rovers with uplifting roofs for better viewing. Four companions join in the adventure plus an experienced tracker driver who makes sure you all see the Big Five and more. After spending 2 nights at Samburu, we headed south towards Lake Nakuru. This is the most beautiful part of Kenya with rich soil ideal for growing tea and coffee. Along the Rift Valley the scenery grows ever more spectacular. On the way we stop for lunch at Thomson Falls, a beautiful garden and waterfall. When we reach our destination we find Nakuru Lodge situated on top of the hill with lovely gardens, friendly staff, excellent food, and a peaceful swimming pool. The area of Nakuru Reserve is famous for abundance of White and Black Rhino as well as flamingo colonies by the thousands. The lake is actually pink due to the color of the swarms of flamingos. Our last two nights were spent at Serena Masai Lodge perched on a cliff overlooking the whole Masai Plateau which is part of the Serengetti plains situated in Tanzania. The entire valley can be seen from the pool area – really magical. The rooms are comfortable and decorated with native African decor. We spent lots of viewing time in the Masai Mara area as it is full of all animals. Some of our group had the thrilling opportunity of going ballooning over the Masai Mara early in the morning as the sun rose. As it was in November the migration was already over, but we still saw zebras crossing the Masai River and trying not to be eaten by the crocodiles who await them. Same applies to the colony of hippos who despite the danger from crocodiles seem to survive and thrive in these conditions. Our last night we had dinner in the bush away from the lodge using torches for light and the charming staff entertaining us with their dances and songs. I remember a wonderful feeling being part of the bush and the wilderness.
At all times Wildlife Safari was first-class with very knowledgeable drivers informed endlessly on wildlife, bird life history and nature. More than that actually – I found the them to be a force of nature with lots of love in their hearts and a respectful appreciation for the land. I felt so much joy seeing my four-legged friends in their natural habitat living in harmony not worried about human beings. To sum it all up Kenya was a most memorable experience, a Nirvana away from the brutal reality of the world around us. The place brings you back to serenity and peace of mind and the importance of preserving nature despite the benefits of progress. Buenos Aires (cont.)HOTELS
FOUR SEASONS – Although the main building includes all the service and amenities you would expect from a Four Seasons and is widely considered the best hotel in Buenos Aires, the separate seven-suite belle epoque French chateau-like Alazaga Unzue Mansion behind the tower amongst its pool and manicured gardens is the place to stay. Even if you don’t stay in The Mansion, request a room on the 3rd or 4th floor facing it across the pool. This Four Seasons manages to blend old-fashioned values and modern facilities with grace. ESPLENDOR BUENOS AIRES – Best choice in the Retro city centre along the Av. Cordoba. A Neo-renaissance Italian building with French architectural influences, don’t let the exterior fool you. Inside, you enter a contemporary setting housing avant-garde mixed media installations situated throughout the hotel’s central corridor featuring portraits of famous Argentines including Eva Peron, Carlos Gardel and Astor Piazzolla. The rooms are high-tech and comfortable, but asked to be upgraded to a VIP suite. The small staff are incredibly kind and go out of their way to be accommodating. While staying here my friend lost her wallet in a taxi and the night staff helped her for hours making overseas calls to cancel her credit cards. FAENA HOTEL & UNIVERSE – Hottest place to stay in Buenos Aires, the realized vision of fashion industry veteran Alan Faena. The rooms are full of Philippe Starck drama with an Argentine twist – velvets, rich colours, white bedding and leather furniture. Located in the up-and-coming docklands district Puerto Madero, each guest is assigned an ‘experience manager’ who acts as your personal assistant throughout your stay. 1555 MALABIA HOUSE – Buenos Aires has witnessed a boom in stylish, owner-run boutique hotels popping up all over the city. Malabia House was the first designer B&B in Argentina and lies in the heart of the most exclusive neighborhood of Palermo Soho. Here you are treated like a guest in someone’s private home. Still 24-hour concierge and room service exist. Try to book the ‘Balcony’ room which has large windows facing the street. HOME HOTEL – Another boutique family-run hotel in chic Palermo Hollywood, Home is hip and stylish while still being cozy. It is run by music producer Tom Rixton and his wife Patricia who decorated the beautiful, sleek rooms with modern amenities. The highlight is their outdoor heated pool and landscaped garden with one of the city’s coolest bars which features a DJ and dancing on Friday nights. APARTMENTS FOR RENT – For short-term stays in Buenos Aires, Lena Rosenfeld rents out private apartments fully equipped. Email: srozas@fibertel.com.ar Tel: (54-11) 4806-8507 |
| © Kimberly Rosbe 2009 | |
For one week in February, the streets of Rio heave in number and creative expression with an explosion of colourful floats and costumes, scantily-clad decorated beautiful women, and singing and dancing the calibre of which no party in the world can match. The rhythm accelerates as the procession continues and the collective energy is mind-boggling. This wild brand of Latin bohemia will liberate even the most reserved stiff. If you are really lucky, you’ll catch a fleeting glimpse of Valeria Valenssa. For the past ten years, Valeria has been the symbol of the Brazilian Carnaval as the nation universally agrees that she embodies the supreme aesthetic attributes of the ideal woman. If we could all be so blessed!
Rising 396 metres above sea-level, this monolithic morros of granite above Guanabara Bay in Urca is the second classic vantage point of Rio that can’t be missed. Sugar Loaf is another iconic landmark of Rio intrinsic to the city and an integral part of its skyline. Not for acrophobes, a glass-paneled cable car runs along a 1400-metre cable between the peaks of Pao de Acucar and Cara de Cao. Make it to the top and all of Rio spreads out below. For the truly brave, Sugarloaf and two other mountains in Rio (Babylon and Urca) form the largest urban climbing areas in the world. Whether climbing or riding, be sure to venture to the top on a clear day since overcast clouds can envelope the mountain peak reducing visibility to absolute zero.
The waves of the city’s oceans are reflected in Roberto Burle Marx’s instantly recognisable mosaic-tiles which snake 5 kilometres along the edge of Copacabana Beach’s promenade. Although the best-known landscape architect of the 20th century, Roberto Marx’s curvilinear abstractions in concrete will be his stamp on Rio forever. And he will be remembered every time we take a walk along the beaches. Check out the Bar Luiz, first opened in 1927. This Austro-German historic establishment has branched out to a kiosk on the Copacabana beach promenade.
The third vantage point of Rio that is a must-do. Located across Guanabara Bay on a point reached by ferry to Niterio, the Contemporary Art Museum is a space-ship like domed modern spectacle swooping over the water. The prize winning architect genius Oscar Niemeyer, the last surviving modernist, has attempted to synergise the past and the future of his beloved Brazil in this retro-futurism building. Niteroi Museu is truly a sight to behold and may be the most beguiling project of his 80 years of ground-breaking work. Not to mention the view of Rio from its sea platform is stunning.
Fasano - Positioned at the single best sunset watching spot at the southern end of Ipanema Beach on Avenida Vieira Souto, this recently opened modern Italian hotel is the first project designed from scratch by Philippe Starck. Although the rooms are certainly innovative design, they are small for the price tag although their individual balconies have the best views in Rio. However, the real draw of Fasano is its perfect location and most notably its pool. The Fasano’s rooftop infinity pool and lounge area Londrina is THE fashionable place to be. Voted by Conde Naste as one of the top ten pools in the world, it offers unparalleled views of Ipanema as well as captures unique angles of Arpoador, the Two Brother’s Mountain and Corvovado.
Zuka - For a contemporary taste of local cuisine and a mingle with the chic and fashionable crowd of Leblon on the Rua Dias Ferreira, this is my favourite choice. Housed in a cool modernist cube with an open kitchen area where the young innovative chef Ludmila Soeiro whips up delectable dishes on the charcoal grill. Best to go tapas style as there is so much to choose from worth trying. To start, order the pear and goats cheese crustini – it melts in your mouth. Rua Dias Ferreira 233, Leblon
A necessary stop on all Qantas flights from Australia to Rio, Buenos Aires provides the perfect 48-hour layover in Argentina before heading to Brazil. Revered with a history of political protest, pre-eminent polo players, football mania, a rich art scene and abundant intellectuals, Buenos Aires today still captures the best of its past in this aggressively urban city bursting with creative energy. We all can still clearly envision the beautiful Eva Peron delivering inspirational speeches waving from a balcony of the presidential palace in the Plaza de Mayo. The Evita myth remains as strong as ever here particularly in light of current difficult economic times. And then, of course, there is the tango. A virtual national dance, the tango is a flirtation of lust and frigidity which seduces timelessly – and although an ancient dance, still poignantly relevant today. No one can deny that tango and Buenos Aires are indivisible. Spontaneous tango will break out in a bar, cafe or on the street anywhere in the capital. Tango shows are what Broadway shows are to New York – the quintessential evening entertainment of the city. When you grow hungry from all that dancing, the logical authentic BA choice is beef – Argentina produces the finest in the world. There is no more fitting red wine to accompany red meat than a sticky malbec, an Argentine wine tasting somewhere between a cabernet sauvignon and merlot the best of which are produced in the vineyards of Mendoza. Cut your tender meat with a spoon, sip a malbec and breathe in the authentic soul of Buenos Aires.
Polo is to Argentina what baseball is to America – except on a much more elite scale. To honour Argentina’s obsession with horses and polo, catch an early evening race in summer at the belle epoque Hipodromo Argentino de Palermo near the centre of town. If your trip coincides with mid-November to December, attend the annual Argentine Open Polo Championship with BA high society.
SHOWTIME – With a plethora of nightly tango shows throughout the city, it is difficult to choose only one. The El Cabaret at the Faena Hotel & Universe Hotel hosts the most intimate and glamourous cabaret show in town at its opulently draped room rich in red velvet, gold leaf and dark leather dimly lit by chandeliers. Dinner, drinks and show are included in the expensive admission price but lighting the guests’ cigars is free. The live orchestra and dance show does nod towards Le Moulin Rouge. If you are lucky after the show, ask to have a drink with the ultimate tango legend Carlos Copello who graces the audience with his dignified presence twice during the performance. Other great tango shows include Esquina Carlos Gardel, La Ventura and Cafe Tortoni.
